Dalhousie Square

Raj Nostalgia by Rain

Photo Essay by Shreya Goswami

Dalhousie Square is known today as BBD Bagh but it is still replete with Raj nostalgia, especially contained in some of the imposing buildings.

St John’s Church was among the first public buildings erected by the East India Company after Kolkata became the effective capital of British India. Its construction started in 1784, with money raised through a public lottery. A masterpiece painted by Zoffanay that still hangs on the wall makes it worth a visit.

Built in 1813 in the Roman-Doric style by architect John Garstin, the Town Hall was meant to provide Europeans with a place for social gatherings. The public could visit the ground floor hall to see statues and large size portraits but they were not allowed indiscriminate access to the upper floor. Some of India’s foremost celebrities, including scientist Jagadish Chandra Bose and poet Rabindranath Tagore have lectured on its premises. Today, wholly refurbished, it is used for state public receptions and exhibitions.

Walk around Dalhousie Square to witness some of Kolkata’s most impressive Victorian and Georgian architecture. Like the General Post Office with its dome and old-fashioned clock, the office buildings constructed around Lal Dighi, including the Writers’ Building where Robert Clive and Warren Hastings had their offices and which currently houses the office of West Bengal’s Chief Minister. The place is locally known as Office Para or the locality of offices. The road dividers are made of Portuguese wrought iron, so reminiscent of London streets.

The magnificent building that contains the office of HSBC is, indeed, straight out of a Dickens novel! It is located in the southern end of BBD Bagh and is a silent reminder of times gone by when the place was the centre of mercantile and political power.